May 5, 2006
Section: Gulf Coasting
Edition: Fort Myers
Veranda remains bastion of Southern charm
Jean Le Boeuf, Staff
DINING REVIEW
Many moons ago, when I was but a young whippersnapper of a reporter, The News-Press flew me in for what's known as a "tryout."
In my three days here, I wrote one story, toured the area -- and had my first taste of the Veranda's Southern charm.
I well remember that meal, which I consumed while ensconced in a chair so big and plush I could hardly move it. Polished waiters tended to our needs and I savored the view of the lush courtyard visible through French doors.
I can't remember what I ate, but I do recall that the food was quite good. Based on a recent visit, I'm happy to say that the Southern charm of the Veranda remains strong, affording diners the feeling they are being entertained in some grande dame's parlor.
There's a good reason: the Veranda occupies two turn-of-the-century homes that have been melded into one entity.
As is customary, we walked through the dark bar and along a narrow hallway past the kitchen to reach the charming dining room with its fireplace, crisp white linen tablecloths and formally attired waiters. The hostess had warned us that they were short on servers, but we weren't in a hurry and decided to stay. While it did take our overtaxed server a few minutes to get to us, once he arrived, he was attentive and helpful, giving no indication that he was needed at a half-dozen other tables.
We each had a glass of fruity Australian shiraz, the name of which I failed to note. The restaurant offers 12 wines by the glass, dozens more by the bottle and, for those looking for something special, there's a reserve list available upon request.
Dinner began as it generally does here: with a basket of bread and mini corn muffins accompanied by butter pats and red pepper jelly.
Those sweet little muffins slathered in the spicy-sweet jelly create a most satisfying combination of taste and texture.
At our server's suggestion, we split one appetizer and were glad. The escargot in a Maytag Bleu cheese cream sauce was wondrous, but half a serving proved just the right amount. We each received half of a puff pastry and four plump, tender snails atop a bed of Maytag blue cheese sauce, a tangy creation with just the right amount of garlic and parsley.
